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I learned about this technique from Pat Stamps Technique Junkies Newsletter. Now before anyone gets upset with me, Pat has said that it's perfectly all right to share techniques in our own words–just not to copy what she has written.I made a couple of really big mistakes that affected every step after them so these aren't great examples of Acetate Frost, but I hope they'll give you an idea of what can be done. The ATC's in the first post have the holographic film. Most of the ones in the second post are warped rejects. I must not have scanned the dozen I sent out, but in post #3, I scanned the one I got back.1. I stamped the image (PSX Black Eyed Susan or Stampendous Millefiori) on an inkjet transparency. (MISTAKE #1: I stamped on the smooth side. I should have stamped on the rough side–the same side the printer prints on.) The directions called for Stazon. Sometimes I used that and sometimes I heat embossed Versafine. (The Stazon was bleeding and coming off.) Since then I've learned that Stazon doesn't take kindly to alcohol so next time I'll use something else.2. I put dots of alcohol inks on the non-stamped side of the transparency. I used a cosmetic sponge to apply blending solution (directions called for extending solution) to each dot or splash. I used a clean side of the sponge for each color. I let it dry. It's all right to heat set. (Remember Mistake #1? Well, now I was on the rough side of the transparency and the coating on that side interfered with the way the alcohol moved. That accounts for the splashes. I was throwing that stuff on. I don't think that would have been necessary had I been on the smooth side where I should have been.)3. In the next step, I applied white pigment ink to the entire alcohol-inked side of the transparency and heat embossed it with clear EP. (MISTAKE #2: I overheated the transparency causing it to warp. I ruined several that way.)4. I layered the transparency onto white cs that I had put through the Xyron and trimmed the cs to the size of a transparency. I mounted it to black glossy cs.My own variation: On a few I put a layer of gold or silver holographic film between the transparency and the white cs. The effect of the film is muted by the white ink and the EP.Confession: I had so much trouble with the white pigment ink step, that I tried white chalk ink too. On some of them I think I skipped that step altogether. The coating on the rough side of the inkjet transparency gummed up when I added the inks. I'm not sure if using the white cs was part of the original directions, or if I used it to make up for the white-ink problems. I'll have to double check that.Next time: I'm going to try the transparencies that are used in copy machines. They should take heat better. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try heat-embossable transparencies. Just remember, if you use the inkjet transparencies, stamp on the rough side, and keep that heat gun moving and at a distance to the the acetate. TFL. Daria


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